BARUNTSE (34 days: October-November 2012 or April 2013)

Baruntse  (7,129m) is situated close to Mt Makalu and is remote and at the centre of three glacier valleys, the Imja, the Hunku and Barun. The expedition will approach Baruntse via the Hinku valley and Ambulapcha Pass. Two camps will be established on the Lower Varun glacier, below the SE ridge at 6000m and 6300m, respectively. Fixed line will be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East col. The summit is reached over 7-10 hours along a stunning and exposed ridge line (using fixed ropes). The crux is a steep ice wall at around 7000m.