MERA PEAK and IMJA TSE (ISLAND PEAK) (30 days: April-May 2012)
Mera Peak (6476m, 21,248ft)
Mera is situated in the southern part of the Khumbu region in Makalu Barun National Park. The approach is from Lukla and over the intermediate ranges into the Hinku valley. A high camp (5,800m) will be established on the edge of the Mera glacier.
From Mera the route drops into the Hongu valley which is followed north to Panch Pokhari (five lakes) and over the knife-edge Amphu Labtsa pass (5650m). Descent is via fixed ropes to the Imja valley and Island Peak base camp.
Amphu Labtsa pass scenes: (i) on the knife edge pass (looking down to Panch Pokhari; (ii) abseiling down to Imja valley; (iii) on the steep ice descent from Amphu Labtsa pass
Island Peak (6189m, 20,306ft)
Originally named named Island Peak by Eric Shipton's 1952 party for its resemblance to an 'island in a sea of ice', it was renamed Imja Tse in 1983. From a high camp at 5,600m, the classic route involves an initial rocky ascent, continuing with a fixed rope up the Imja glacier to the south ridge and on to the summit (route 1 below).
